The Rome IndexA walk through Testaccio
The food neighbourhood on foot — market, pyramid, Protestant Cemetery, aperitivo.
The route
Start at Mercato Testaccio when it opens — coffee and a supplì at the market counter, then browse the produce stalls. South to the Pyramid of Cestius (a genuine Egyptian-style pyramid from 12 BC built into the Aurelian Wall). Cross through the gate to the Protestant Cemetery — Keats and Shelley, ancient cypresses, and completely peaceful. Back north for lunch at one of the trattorias on Via Galvani or Via Giovanni Branca.
Monte Testaccio
The hill at the south of the neighborhood is entirely artificial — built from millions of broken Roman amphora that were discarded after being used to ship olive oil from North Africa. The clubs built into the caves beneath it are Rome's main late-night nightlife strip.
Afternoon
The Baths of Caracalla are a 15-minute walk south — add them for a full day in this part of the city, or save them for a separate visit.