The Rome Index
A walk through Monti
Rome's oldest rione on foot — from the Colosseum to the best wine bar on Via del Boschetto.
Where to start
Begin at the Colosseum early and walk northwest — the Arch of Constantine, the Meta Sudans fountain base, and the view back toward the Palatine set the ancient context before the neighbourhood's very different current character takes over.
The route
Via Cavour runs through the middle; the more interesting streets are the narrower ones parallel to it — Via del Boschetto, Via degli Zingari and Piazza della Madonna dei Monti form a compact loop of independent shops, aperitivo bars and lunch spots.
What to look for
Monti's vintage and independent fashion shops are concentrated on a few streets that reward slow browsing. The small street market on Via Sannio nearby runs daily and is worth combining with a Monti morning.
The rione's underworld reputation
Historically known as the Suburra, ancient Monti had a reputation as one of Rome's rougher, poorer districts — associated with crime and vice in classical sources, including reputedly frequented by a young Julius Caesar. The contrast with today's fashionable boutiques and wine bars is a genuinely striking historical reversal worth knowing as you walk the same streets.
Independent design specifically
Beyond vintage clothing, Monti has become a genuine hub for small, independent Italian jewellery and accessory designers selling directly from small ateliers rather than through larger retail channels — worth browsing slowly if you're interested in buying something genuinely locally made rather than mass-produced.
