Food

Gelato & coffee culture

How to order like a local, and where to look for the good stuff.

Spotting real gelato

Muted, natural colors and metal covered tins are better signs than piled-high, neon-bright displays — a genuine pistachio should look grey-green, not lime.

Coffee

Most Romans drink espresso standing at the bar, quickly, rather than sitting with a laptop. Ordering "un caffè" gets you an espresso by default.

The ritual, not just the product

Both gelato and coffee in Rome are as much about the daily ritual as the product itself — a five-minute stand at the bar counter, a gelato eaten walking rather than sitting, a rhythm built into the day rather than a planned treat. Visitors who slow down and try to make it an event often miss the point; Romans fold both into the ordinary business of getting through a day.

Combining the two

A classic Roman habit is affogato — a scoop of gelato (usually fior di latte or vanilla) 'drowned' in a hot shot of espresso poured tableside, the ice cream melting into the coffee as you eat. It's on very few menus by name but nearly any gelateria or bar with an espresso machine can make one on request.

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